Before I knew it, the pilot reduced the power and we started to descend, the deep blue of
the Gulf Stream giving way to turquoise. A sliver of an island appeared in the distance.
The plane made a wide turn and continued its slow descent. The bottom was visible below us
though the water had to be twenty feet deep, and then a hiss emanated from under my feet
as the plane touched down on the surface between the island and a large bonefish flat. The
pilot taxied back through an anchorage filled with sailboats and sportfishing boats, and
several minutes later we were up the ramp at Bimini
Traffic waited for us to cross the small road that dissected the ramp area, and we pulled
in next to the customs shack, where a small crowd waited to greet the plane. I climbed out
of that plane into another world and another time. Since that day, I have logged hundreds
of hours in the Bermuda Triangle between Miami and the Bahamas. The Chalk's terminal at
Watson Island has become almost a second home for my planes, and I have made the landing in
Bimini dozens of times. I know the streets of the town, and the people who live and work
there are now old friends. I have enough stories of Bimini alone to fill a book, but the
point of this story is that it was the first experience in a seaplane that touched my soul
and eventually turned me from a passenger on a flying boat into a captain.
The above is an excerpt from Jimmy Buffett's book, "A Pirate Looks at Fifty".
Bimini is changing, just as the rest of the world is. Some people feel for the better and others feel
that it is for the worse. Read on, below, for my fond memories of Bimini, the Island in the Stream, that
I don't want to forget and the Bimini I have loved for so many years. Click here
to read about the new Bimini, that is replacing the Bimini that I loved for so many years.
The island of Bimini is my favorite rock I've found so far in the
Bahamas. I tell everyone, Bimini is 50 miles from Florida and so many years
removed. Bimini is not a place to go, if you crave bright lights and
casinos (they are building a casino on the island as of November 2002,
but it has a very long way to go). The things to do on Bimini (at least what I've found
after a couple dozen trips) are to explore the small island (the island is a couple of
blocks wide by about 7 miles long and is shaped similar to a boomerang. It has been referred
to as a glorifed sandbar, more than once.),
scuba dive, fish and at night to eat great seafood at just about any of the
restaurants and then visit the handful of bars and have a drink and be
sociable and meet and make new friends.
As far as I'm concerned, there is only one way to get to Bimini and that is
by Chalk's Ocean Airways (started out originally as Chalk's and then
Pan Am Air Bridge and then to Chalk's Ocean Airways). The plane is a 17 seat 1942 Grumman
seaplane which you can take from Fort Lauderdale to Bimini.
I believe half the fun of going to Bimini is flying in the seaplane.
The flight only takes about 25 minutes or so and it gives you a great view
of the island and its beautifully colored surrounding waters. The
take-off from Fort Lauderdale is from Fort Lauderdale/Hollywood
International Airport at Terminal 4. Chalk's Ocean Airways can be reached at 1 800 424
2557. If, you would like to see a schedule of their flights and times, as well as
their web page click here.
12/19/2005 Update... I am saddened to hear about the tragedy, today, about the Chalk's seaplane that went down in Government Cut. My thoughts and prayers go out to all of the individuals that lost their lives, as well as to their extended families, they left behind, today.
I don't know if Chalk's seaplanes will ever fly, again, since they are still grounded as of the Summer of 2007. One can only hope they will manage to be able to prove their air worthiness, again.
The beaches of Bimini are some of the prettiest and varied that you will
ever see. Some stretch for miles with large sandy beaches and some are rocky
coves to explore. The waters are normally gin clear and they will dazzle you with the
brillant neon shades of colors, unless you happen to be
there on one of those rare occasions, when a cold (it really isn't cold)
front passes through from the States. It can kick the waters up for a day or
so, but, then it settles back down to where it is simply gorgeous to behold
with various brilliant colors of blue and green. Make sure you take a taxi
to the north end of the island and arrange for them to pick you up a few
hours later. At the very north end you will find a long expanse of beach,
you can probably claim to your self or walk back towards town on the west
side of the island and you will find many secluded rock coves to call your
very own. They are absolutely beautiful! Two highways (and I use that term very loosely) take you
around the island. They are called the King and Queen's Highways and they are just large enough to let
a golf cart drive comfortable down the road. If you are looking for a golf course for the golf carts, you
need to look elsewhere, as you won't find one on this small island.
A few of my favorite places to eat are C.J.'s for lunch. Make sure to try their
fabulous Conch Fries. C.J.'s Deli is absolutely the best place to go for a conch
break. Click here to see photo. I also enjoy eating dinner at the Blue Water Anchorage. They are up on a
hill (well, maybe its closer to a bump than a hill) and you can see both the
Atlantic and North Bimini harbor. Order their Fisherman's Platter. Its around
$20.00 per person and you get lobster, fresh fish of the day, conch,
scallops and on and on. Oh, they also serve you up a delicious order of
Bahamas bread that is out of this world. Click here to see photo. Captain Bob's is a great place to go
for breakfast. They serve an excellent conch omelet. Click here to see photo.
Lodging is pretty much of a pick the price range you are interested in.
Prices range from around $50.00 a night to well over
$150.00 a night (Bimini Big Game Club) and a couple others I've stayed at
that are between those two in pricing. They are the Seacrest Hotel and The
Compleat Angler (see the picture of the arch way). Only stay at the Compleat
Angler, if, you like to party hard and late, because it is very loud at night
and basically everything seems to revolve around this little hotel. By the
way, the Compleat Angler is where Ernest Hemingway used to hang out, when he
lived in Bimini and a good part of the hotel has been turned into a museum
in his honor. If, you want to get an idea of Bimini, read Ernest Hemingway's
novel, Islands in the Stream. If you would like to have some phone
numbers for some of the hotels on Bimini click here.
01/13/2006 Update... I cannot believe that in less than 30 days from the terrible Chalk's accident, there has been another sad tragedy and this one on Bimini. The Compleat Angler burnt to the ground, today, taking with it, Mr. Julian Brown, the owner. From what I've been told, all the Ernest Hemingway memorabilia from the museum on the ground floor has been completely destroyed.
Whenever I go to Bimini it is to get away from hustle and bustle of the real
world. If people who do drugs only realized that there is a natural drug
and its called Bimini, they would not need anything else, but alas Bimini
is addictive, also. I only dive with Bimini Undersea (they have the
only dive shop on North Bimini Island). The owners Bill and Nowdla Keefe are
true professionals and the dive masters and boat captains they have working
for them know the dive spots well (Melanie and Audley were great). They were
impressive with their knowledge of the area waters and tried very hard to
show us a good time.
Saying goodbye to Bimini is often a difficult thing to do. It is really a
great place to go and have a good time. The only thing that makes me smile,
when I'm leaving is the fact that I know I will return as soon as I can
manage to talk someone else into a dive trip or just a short trip to get
another fix of Bimini.
If you want to make reservations for the whole trip or just a part of it,
just e-mail the folks at Bimini Undersea at
Bimini Undersea.
and tell them tropicdiver sent you and I'm sure that will earn you a free
dumb look from them while they wonder who the heck I am or you can check out their
web site at
Bimini Undersea.
Enjoy your time while you are in Bimini and toss a sea shell in the gin
clear water for me!